Jujuy, Salta, Corrientes, Misiones: 04. – 22.06.2010

We have been in Argentina again. This time it was supposed to be the last time. So it meant to enjoy this colorful and diverse country at its brightest, what we extensively did.

After we crossed the border, where again an hour got stolen from us, we headed on for the search of a suitable spot for our night camp. This we found in the middle of Salinas Grande. A little teaser of what we could expect in Bolivia, where the largest salt lake of our earth lies. But we continued the next morning to a little village called Purmamarca. In the past of our journey we’ve often seen colorful rocks, but this area should almost be prohibited and it is not for nothing called the valley of the seven colors. Through the valley of Quebrada de Humahuaca we’ve cruised towards the Bolivian border and enjoyed it a lot with all its colorful rock formations. We didn’t want to cross the border just yet but instead headed south along the northern part of the Ruta 40 which includes the highest pass of Argentina with 4’975 Meters.

Also here in the north that mystic road passes through breathtaking landscapes that literally show something new behind every turn. It also crosses under Argentines most famous Railroad track the tren de los nubes (train to the clouds) that goes from Salta to the Passo Socompa and only serves a tourist purpose.

That evening we stud just less than 5’000 Meters above sea level, and now? The wind up here blew storm like around our heads, so we looked for the next suitable place and found it on 4’955 Meters. Ok, we haven’t slept much and have been grateful as the sun came up the next morning and we could keep on moving. Of course we didn’t go down since there was a magical 5’000 Meters boundary to break. Since that was not possible with Nisto, we had to fall back on our own feet. Up here for a distance of 1.4 Kilometers we used about one hour. Ok we have to admit that the first hill we chose didn’t approve to break that boundary so we had to go down and take a second approach on a different one.

After this ‘breathtaking’ excursion, we definitely had the need of some more air and headed to the flat lands, or a bit more accurate, Salta. Here Nisto became an all round work over; new tires (badly needed after almost one year on the road) a thorough wash from the out and inside, the later was urgently needed to finally remove the sandbox that accumulated. We enjoyed two days in ‘thick’ warm air and celebrated Argentines first victory in the soccer world cup.

Before we took a big step eastward we visited Parque National El Rey. Just before dawn we reached our target, moved into the campground that we had all to ourselves and quickly disappeared in bed. Because who wants to see birds, has to get up early. For the first time in weeks the night was not all quiet anymore. Here we could here sounds of animals that we could not recognize. Nevertheless we slept sound. Till early next morning when we heard somebody walk on our roof. What giant bird has gotten lost here? And as it started hammering on it, Sonja tried a peek and stared to two round eyes of an Urraca. She quickly grabbed the camera and started shooting. Because all around Nisto in the trees where some of the curious birds.

We spent the day exploring the park. And met Wild Hogs, Corzuelas, small Parrots, Butterflies, Chuna de patas rojas and even a Giant Toucan flew by. It would have been one great day in nature, if it was not for the evening. Because as another group of Urracas came by, of course Sonja headed for the perfect picture, therefore she must have stepped into a tick nest. All of a sudden her pants started moving. Fortunately these creatures don’t carry any diseases around here. Never the less, they have not been on our must see list! And we decided to get lost early next morning leave that beautiful spot all to the ticks.

With a giant leap we drove via Resistencia and Corrientes into the Reserva Provincial Esteros del Ibera. We heard that there are some Capybaras (Water pigs), and that we definitely didn’t want to miss. Indeed, already on the drive there we got lucky and a herd was grazing just along the road. It was fun to watch these unique creatures. We would have liked to stay longer, but rain and a thunderstorm kept us moving. Even if it wasn’t as quick as we would have liked to.

Our eyes where signaling smooth dirt road, but Nisto said different, rain converted the road into one giant mud tub. Snow is nothing against it. Sometimes we drove sideways and couldn’t help it, because Nisto has its main weight in the back. Mud even spattered up on the roof. From the wash just days before, nothing was seen anymore. And Nisto must have gained quite a few kilos in mud. Besides that we learned that a road does not have to be alto much sloping to get a car to tilt over. Nisto for once moved on quite normal, but it shouldn’t last because all of a sudden he skidded sideways. Markus tried it all to work against it but it didn’t help. Nisto ‘wanted’ to go through this. We slipped sideways ‘down’ the road and hit dirt edge. Through the ‘impact’ Nisto lifted his left wheels and has been a two wheeler for about a meter. While in the passenger compartment everything that was not nailed gained wings. Fortunately nothing worse happened, Nisto got back on all four and as compensation a Jaburu Stork (wingspan about 2.5m and 1.5 m tall) just landed next to us soon after we continued. The last bit until the paved road we managed without further adrenalin rushes.

For the last station in Argentina we chose Parque National Iguazu, for us the most imposing waterfalls we have ever seen. 1’000 cubic meters of water tumbles 80 meters down per second. The sound that it makes is impressive and one can literarily feel how much force behind that water lies. Besides the magnificent views of the waterfalls are the living creatures of the jungle. As we met Nose Bears, Turtles, a Giant Tucan and Urracas. Yet after three month we turned our backs to that wonderful country for good that evening. It wasn’t quite easy, because we really got to like land and people and kind of felt like home here. But looking forward there is so much that awaits our discovery and who knows, may we’ll come back one day.

With love

Sonja and Markus

Here it goes to the pictures...