Western Australia: 18.06. – 13.07.2011

Land Cruiser and Land Rover together!? For some an abnormal pairing, for us it was a perfect match for adventure, fun and friendship. That we could share with Anita, Roger and their Rebelde www.nichtswieweg.ch. In Melbourne we’ve met them the first time. In Broome it now came to a reunion, were we decided to travel together for a bit. That it was to be for 3 ½ weeks no one would have thought.

After two days of soap opera live, at our campground we’ve had it all; from heated up love affairs and its problems to alcoholics that wanted to get a beer from us for playing music from their cell phone, we left Broome together. Our destination was Cape Leveque at the tip off the Dampier Peninsula north of Broome. This piece of world is famous for its pristine beaches and the red cliffs. Right at the first night we found a spot right at the beach. Therefore we had to cross a dune it would have been a joke if we could not manage that, since all of us became experts in the sand and the harder part was to be the way back. So we could enjoy a clear night away from any civilization and had lot of fun playing games. Ubongo!

The next morning we did not only get woken up by the sun. Wind certainly freshened up and pulled on our roof tents. We desperately searched for a breakfast place at which the ham does not get a red coat of sand, but we largely have been without success and we ate breakfast with grinding teeth. While we continuously got hampered, we’ve seen a person approaching us in the distance. Where is he coming from and first of all does he wear something at all? Well yes a backpack, where the heck did we get into, the naked hikers?!

As we also survived this encounter without permanent damage we packed up and prepared for that dune again. Our fears have been for nothing and we managed to get to the next beach without problem. The turquoise ocean was really tempting but those Saltwater Crocodiles that are supposed to inhabit the area kept us away, never the less we enjoyed the area from a beautiful hike, from our campgrounds or a beach walk that all of a sudden expanded to 8 Kilometers, because Sonja and Anita would not get enough of the beautiful seashells. We most likely would still be there if they wouldn’t charge AUD 8-10 entry for every beach.

After five days we returned to Broome, were we got the message that we didn’t count on no more. The Kimberleys in the north west of Australia were one on our highlights we have been looking forward to. But the last rainy season was exceptionally heavy and long; many parts of this remote area have still been closed. Since May we regularly checked on the internet about the status, the Gibb River Road opened up bit by bit, however the road to the main attraction was still closed and rumors during our first visit to Broome where that it stays closed this whole season. But lady luck seemed to be on our side. Just as we returned the road opened and now we could visit all of the Kimberleys that interested us.

Lots we have heard about this track and of course the four of us have been exited like little children on the day before Christmas. We just needed to fill up our vehicles with goodies, diesel and water, for the next two weeks we would not be finding a decent store, and off we went. Soon we had to realize that the big adventure that the GRR once was is not anymore. The track reminds us more of a common Australian Highway; same width, same traffic. Just more corrugation, bull dust and the occasional creek crossing reminded us that we are far off any civilization. Nevertheless the gorges and waterfalls that this region is famous for are still fabulous. While in the Windjana Gorge we came in close contact with Sweetwater Crocodiles, we navigated our way thru Tunnel Creek to not get an instant bath in the cold water of the creek that actually flows thru a natural tunnel in the Napier Range. But even with torch we had to wade thru belly deep water, the fact that Sweetwater Crocs inhabit the area, we quite successfully managed to hide from our mind. Anyhow they should not be hungry for human flesh as some of their relatives. This walk was definitely one of the highlights in the Kimberleys, but of course we also peeked at the one or the other waterfall as they had an exceptional lot of water because of the good rainy season. We even took a detour of 500 Kilometers to visit one. In Europe unthinkable as we would have crossed all of Switzerland and back just to see some water falling off the rocks. But the Mitchell Falls seemed to have a magic draw and indeed what nature created here is simply amazing. Another plus of this spot is; no busloads of people and no boardwalk that ruin this spectacular sight, nature pure as far as the eye can reach.

Our last station on the Gibb River Road was the El Questro Wilderness Park. A private farm that has learned that there is more money so earn from tourists than from cattle, so besides steak now days they also sell the waterfalls, gorges and viewpoints that are located on their approximately 4’000 square kilometer large property. Attracted by wonderful pictures the trap also snapped on us. Ok one waterfall really was amazing but AUD 108.00 is from our perspective a bit over the top. The peak of the impertinence was yet to come. On a board advertising things to do we’ve seen that you can hire boats for ‘only’ AUD 130.00 for half a day. In the mean time we’ve learned; in Australia everything good has its drawbacks, but here we just could not find it. There was no extra for the motor and since it was an electro motor there would be no fuel costs. So the Gibb-River-Travel-Group held a meeting and decided that is was worth a try, as there also was a chance of finally seeing Saltwater Crocs, recent sightings have reported them in the Chaimberlain Gorge where we would be cruising. Right on time at 7am we sat in our nutshell and started our chase for the Salties. With wind in the back and the sunroof open we whizzed along the river. As after half an hour huge rocks made it impossible to continue we finally found the drawback. How should you spend five hours on a river that is only half a square kilometer in size without dying out of pure boredom? Swimming wasn’t an option because of the Salties. Walking well we didn’t quite pay for that, but at least it ate up another hour. After another slow and thorough inspection of the gorge we were back at square one. What now?!? Hmm, why not try the other direction? Here only a few rocks blocked the way and all of us have a high level of cross country experience. Well easier said than done as our experience mainly relies on wheels on the ground, we had to drag the nutshell over countless rocks. While Sonja was still hesitant to get out of our ocean cruiser, with the water being knee deep the Crocs were still on her mind, however the others pulled and pushed at the nutshell to drag it over the rocks. But even as the princess of the pea vacated her seat, we just could not get it across. Even though the lower waterhole would have been nice, it was not worth the effort and we aborted our experiment in the middle of it. So we decided to do another tour around the designated area. As it slowly got time to return the battery of our eco powered mobile thought that it had enough. A bit more than a kilometer away from the pier and headwind, Ahh that is why they also provided paddles! So muscle power had to be providing the way back. As we returned the flat battery and the useless motor Roger and Markus could not help it but complain and asked for a refund for the effort of brining the whole vessel back walking might have been quicker. Once more it was clear, if you don’t ask you cannot win. Ultimately we have been proud owner of four ice cold beers, who with a peek to their price in this area are a suitable compensation.

Two days later we reached Kununarra and celebrated our survival of the Gibb-River Road. However to really start the party we had to wait till 5pm, in many places in northern Australia alcohol may only be sold past this time, besides that there is a limit to what one person may acquire per day which is registered to your driving license that gets scanned on every purchase. The whole system should prevent the abuse of alcohol, however we have great doubts that this whole fuss has really any affect. It just makes organizing a nice party a pain, lucky enough the limit was large enough for our little celebration; 30 cans per person should be enough for us.

Together we made another side trip to Lake Argyle, a manmade lake that became the second largest in Australia. Here, after three and a half weeks it finally meant to say good bye. We wanted to have another peak in the area, Anita and Roger headed off to Darwin. Rebelde had to catch a container that would bring him to Cape Town. Guys it was great traveling with you and we for sure will meet again for a sequel, where ever this might be, who knows may be we already catch up in Darwin

Kind regards

Sonja and Markus

Here it goes to the pictures...