Western Australia: 06.06. – 18.06.2011

The next two days we spent with eliminating kilometers and have been accompanied by constant rain. With our thoughts at the fabulous time we’ve just had at the Ningaloo Reef our mood was let’s say not the best. Quite some time we spent arguing if we should turn back or not? But the weather and our original plan pushed us northwards.

Arriving in Karratha we stormed into the visitor center. We needed another permit for a shortcut. This time it was a private road of a mining company that supports it rail track. Therefore we had to watch a video. After a couple minutes we felt like we were set up and looked around for hidden cameras. But nope they meant it dead serious and continued to inform us on how to drive and not kill yourself on a gravel road. How far did we have to drive on unsealed roads to get here? Well we just waited to be explained which pedal is gas and which is the break. Do we have to mention that this was among the best unsealed roads we drove on? But we managed not to fall asleep for twenty minutes, got our permit and off we were filling up the fridge and searching a sleeping place. The later we found close by, nicely hidden in a valley and close to a beach.

While we have been quite pleased with our find, a Ranger was not all too happy about it. Before the sun came up the next morning somebody knocked at our door. So that’s it, after fife and a half month of wild camping in Australia we finally got caught. We expected to get talked to and maybe even a fine. But we only got informed that in Western Australia camping is generally prohibited expect if otherwise signed and then the Ranger was more interested in Nisto and our journey in general and while Markus provided all the information Sonja was preparing breakfast.

After we inspected the Aboriginal petro glyphs on the Berrup Peninsula north of Karratha we headed back inland. In the meantime the sun was back and we enjoyed the beautiful drive thru the Pilbara on a perfect private road. We’ve made a side trip to the beautiful Millstream-Chichester National Park before we went to one of the most spectacular places is Australia. Steep winding colorful gorges and cold but crystal clear rock pools are waiting for you in the Karijini National Park. However also here, the heavy rains in the summer month left their traces in terms of closures of roads and gorges. Nevertheless our thirst for adventure got more than satisfied.

We literally walked every open track in the park, though the highlight was the Handrail Pool. Already in the beginning the track inevitably goes thru the creek and you have to negotiate a way thru not to get your clothes and backpack wet already. At other passages you have to cling to rock walls to avoid the same fate. It was all but easy as the rocks have been polished and slippery from the water and you get a feeling like walking on big ice cubes. Though these balancing acts get richly rewarded with unique views into the steep narrow gorges, more than once they open up to host an exceptionally shaped and colored pool, just to continue again in another narrow gorge. We always tried to avoid the cold water, as the air temperature was not at its peak and very little sun made it to the bottom of the gorge. However at one point there was just no other option, if we wanted to see that last pool we just had to swim thru one section. So we did. Clothing off and into the fun, we did not regret it.

Freezing but happy we started our way back. We just worked our way along the first wall when it happened. While Sonja miraculously managed to hold onto these polished rock she heard a loud splash behind her. Fortunately Markus felt it coming and could choose a crash site where the water was not so deep. At platform diving he sure would have gotten full points. Thou afterwards it only meant to get out of there and into the sun.

After three days we went on. Once more solitude was calling. Sonja has found the most remote National Park in Western Australia on the map, Rudall River National Park. Already in Karratha we asked for information about this park and even if the lady in the visitor center has been there a few years back she ultimately could not help us. In Newman, the last town before the park, still 350 kilometers away, we tried it again, but also there we only earned questioning looks and warnings that we should be well prepared but no real information about road condition and such until a lady produced a hand drawn map with several phone number on it. We tried every one of them, we even went to the police but did not get any real information except that we got to know where to get the cheapest diesel! So we filled up on diesel and water and started the adventure without really knowing what to expect.

Already the next day we reached the Park. The outback had us again. Two tire tracks lead us thru marvelous scenery, desert flowers blooming everywhere, flocks and flocks of cockatiels and budgies seemed to welcome us at this amazing piece of earth. No human soul to be found even if we wanted to, at a little pool the remains of the Rudall River we set up camp and enjoyed a night out in the wild only with the howls of dingoes and the stars. The next day we went to find a rock hole that was marked on our map. There were two ways one supposedly hard to find the other one closer to our camp. So we took the closer one. Ultimately it showed that it was the other way around and the track was only imaginable. It regularly disappeared behind bushes and in the deep spinifex grass. Some dry creek beds we first had to negotiate by foot to actually find the continuing track on the other end. It was great fun. The more difficult track proved to be used way more frequently (about three vehicles have traveled here since the last rain) and was easy to follow.

Besides that the question came up again; when does Nisto tip over? In the afternoon we headed for another waterhole with the beautiful name; Desert Queens Bath. The track was marked as difficult but in the meantime we didn’t give all too much about those comments on our hand drawn map. That was until we got caught up in the middle of this wash out. We had to get thru with it as a detour thru the bush would have resulted in at least one flat tire. Bit by bit we went on into the slope. While Sonja waited for it to happen, Markus drove at a very slow pace. You could hear stones fall, but only the ones released from our tension as Nisto was horizontal again. These were some of the longest 30 meters. Since we spent the night at the pool we got another adrenalin rush the next morning. Fortunately also this time the question was not answered.

Two driving days later we reached Broome. Who we’ve met there and how we continued you can read in the next report.

Regards from Katherine where we finally found Internet connection again.

Sonja and Markus

Here it goes to the pictures...