Belize: 01. - 15.12.2009

The border crossing to Belize could not have been easier. We haven’t parked our Nisto as a wild waving Mexican came towards us, and we were in the fangs of a transmitter.

Oh well it could have been worse, in no time we had our exit stamp in the passport and Nistos registration was canceled. Insurance was paid and were on the way to the Belizean side, there the border control expected us with a friendly smile, we got informed about everything, a chewing gum was offered, Nisto inspected and we were free to go.

Belize, not everyone knows this part of the world. Well with a size of about half of Switzerland, and about five percent of its inhabitants, we think that is somewhat understandable. If you like, you could drive through within one day. But as little this country seems to be, as much it has to offer, that is why we stay a bit longer than the one day.

Our way brought us straight to Lamanai, another Maya site in the middle of the Jungle. We spent the night on the parking lot in front of the entrance to be first in the next morning. That evening the howling monkeys howled us into sleep, and were also waking us just in time in the morning. Nature can be quite annoying with all the bugs, but seems like it has also its good sides.

The whole morning we walked through the Jungle from one Temple to the next. We were hoping to also see one of the loud monkeys and indeed we were lucky. Even though it did not identify himself just as such, first we just heard a dripping from the treetop. Looking for the source we’ve seen two black eyes looking at us. Oops, did we disturb someone on the morning toilet! Luckily he missed us by about a meter. That was not to be the only exiting encounter that morning, while we took a break on a tree high Temple; we have seen the national bird of Belize: the Keel Billed Toucan. How could a day start better than that?

With a broad smile we drove on to the Maya ruin Altun Ha. Before the entrance we had a chat with the “Snake-Man” with his young ant-eater. He was telling us about his research work with snakes and even though he got bitten twice by the most venomous one of Central America, because of his own mistake, he just barely survived, but all that is not hindering him to continue to work for a better reputation of these often miss understood reptiles.

After we also inspected Altun Ha thorouly, we headed towards the Community Baboon Sanctuary, where we spent the night. The Sanctuary is a unique private institution where landowners of the town Bermuda Landing agreed on a volunteer basis to leave the land natural to provide a secure habitat for the rare black howler monkeys.

The next morning we went with our guide Robert into the bushes on the search of these monkeys. We didn’t have to walk very far as to see the first ones in the treetops. It is just amazing to see how these distant relatives of us can walk even on the smallest branches and go from tree to tree just like that. So picture after picture went in to the memory device.

We wanted to continue with wildlife, so we took the route to the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary. One of the supposing best places for wildlife watching in Belize. Although we were up at 7am already, besides a black bird with a yellow tail, that seemed to throw himself dangerously of the branch with every chirp, we did not get much in from of the lens. But we enjoyed the peacefulness of the jungle, before it meant: off to the island.

Already on forehand we have been thinking of how to fit the diving in Belize in our budget, then besides the beauty it is also known for the big prices. On our research we found Glover’s Reef, or more accurate the Glovers Atoll Resort on Northeast Caye. The 3.6 acre island is located 32km (20mi) from the mainland. Here you can camp in your own tent, live in a dorm or inhabit a tatch cabin at the beach or over the water for a reasonable price. Compost toilets and brack water showers are behind the beach and light is coming from the oil lamps, candles or flashlights. And if you bring your own food or catch a fish (outside of the Marine Reserve) you are completely independent, cooking possibilities are in all cabins and dorms. The island is surrounded by reef that we could reach with our Diveyak without any difficulties, so what to think about. In no time a week over water has been booked even if we had to leave our Nisto behind.

A little question mark was to see on every face joining us on the island, as we’ve compared the boat that was to transport us to the island and the luggage and people that stud on the pier. But looking back on it, one or two more would have fit as well.

Arrived and settled on the island we first went after the coconuts (those you find are free and there are plenty), but how are they opened, then for that reason we took that bottle of rum with us. And really after about half a day of experimenting, it worked quite well. With our mobile dive base we have not been as successful, because the wind was blowing quite strong. So we went for the dive boat on one day and the other we wanted to see the famous blue hole in the Lighthouse Reef. However the trip there was quite hard, with waves of 3-5m (10-15ft) we just got soaked with water. But our Captain Becky (also host of the Island) was riding the waves like we have never seen or experienced it, and the dives at the Lighthouse reef was a great reward. Fortunately the wind decreased on the last days so we could also paddle and dive in the turquoise waters around the island on our own. Above as well as below sea level a dream.

Also the relaxing bit did not get neglected. And with time being plenty, we composed a new version of “Jim Knopf the train driver”, may be only known in Germany but anyhow our version goes like this:”An Island with many palm trees and wide deep blue sea, with many fishes that astonish and the coconut consume. Well what is that islands name all around are pretty beaches, everyone should travel to the beautiful Gloversland.”

 Our last days in Belize we spent in another paradise: Barton Creek Outpost, in the middle of the jungle short before the border to Guatemala. A wonderful piece of earth to relax and just be. But one always had to take care of Bass the Parrot, he likes to play fighter pilot and relaxing heads where his prime target. We also visited the waterfalls in the area and really enjoyed the possibility of a dip in the swim hole at the end of each day. That is how our visit to this beautiful country came to an end.

Till soon

Sonja and Markus

Here it goes to the pictures…

Here it goes to the underwater pictures…