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Pantanal: 25.06. – 20.07.2010 On it went into one of the world largest swamp areas. The Pantanal covers an area of about 230.000 square kilometers, of with the largest part lies in Brasil. Paraguay and Bolivia share the rest. It belongs to one of the last ecological intact paradises of our world. Here still life animals those are elsewhere long extinct. The area is best visited by Canoe, Boat, per Pedes or with one horse power. That is why we had planned a visit to one of the many Fazendas (Farms) to get to the heart land of the Pantanal. The majority of it is private property and is used for cattle herds, but many of them also accommodate tourists now days. But it came different anyway.
After we left the border behind us, we drove towards the southern
Pantanal, or a bit more accurate the crystal clear rivers by the city of
Bonito. Before that however we got the pleasure of the Brazilian
hospitality. On the search of a spot for the night, we turned into a
bumpy sandy track. After a few kilometers a moped came towards us. Since
the track was so narrow we almost stopped anyway and so we explained
our intentions and, although he barely understood us, he didn’t speak
Spanish and we no Portuguese, he invited us spontaneously to spend the
night at his little farm at the end of the track. We could even use his
shower and kitchen. After he gave us a Papaya for dessert, he left us
after a little tour around his farm alone for the night. He would only
return the next morning. Once more we were amazed by the faith into
complete strangers.
The next morning, on the way to the Rio da Prata, we came along a sign
that said “Buraco das Araras”. We read nowhere about a place like this,
but maybe a dream might come true here. Would we see the large red
Araras (parrots) here? So we followed the sign and asked real quickly,
indeed this is supposed to be the place! But we should wait a little
since the majority of the birds returns from daily business not before
4pm to spend the night here. So we drove to the Recanto Ecologico Rio da
Prata, where we asked for the dive possibilities in these clear waters.
But the first counter question was from witch agent we are coming? Hmm
ohm well… we are our own agent! It definitely seemed that it is not
common that people get there on their own. On another place we even got
sent back 25km into town to buy entrance at an agent! But here we could
talk our way thru and got informed that the river is mostly not even a
meter deep, nothing for a real diver, and so we joined a guided
snorkeling tour. Even if those kinds of touristy herd bathing tours do
not really match our idea of seeing something. Before we were allowed
into the wet, we had to walk for a kilometer thru the jungle. One has to
earn the refreshment of a two kilometer soak in a crystal clear river
full of fish. And really visibility and the amount of fish were
terrific, with the current we drifted downwards and as a highlight we
got to see an Anaconda. Ok it was ‘only’ 4 meters long (they get about
to the double size) nevertheless we watched it respectfully gliding
upstream.
After this excursion it went straight on to fulfill the next dream. And
indeed, right on time we heard and saw the lovely Araras return. We
could watch them how they, accompanied by loud croaking, turned their
circles in the sinkhole. Always as a pair, Araras are devoted. Have they
found their partner they stay together for life, and that can last for
up to 70 till 80 years. For over an hour we could watch these colorful
birds, and because that is not enough some giant and chest band toucans
came by as well. What a day that one was!
Our next way led us to the Estrada Parque. A gravel road that leads a
bit into the swamp land. In the meantime the giant toucan belonged to
our daily inventory, barely a day passed that we didn’t at least see one
of these strange looking birds with their colorful and oversized bill.
Now they were joined by the giant Jabiru Storks circling the sky or
searching for food in the swamp. Also small green parrots some with red,
some blue or yellow head joined us along the way. Often we just waited
on one of the many wooden bridges to watch kingfishers and other birds
catching their fish. Even a couple of the red Araras showed up once. Not
to miss out on the many Capybaras and Caimans that gazed in the sun and
of course many different species that we cannot identify because of
missing literature. Five days we spent along this road. Camped at the
roadside, between all the animals, every place had its own sound. On
time with the sun and all the other animals we woke up every morning,
and in case we didn’t want to, there where the ‘want to be roosters’
with their annoying ‘kikerikii’ on site to get us going into a new day
full of animals. And if there would not have been that many mosquitoes,
we still would be enjoying ‘our’ amazingly beautiful river with the blue
and green parrots as neighbors.
After these amazing days it was clear for us, that the idea of visiting
one of the touristy fazendas has lost. With patience, perseverance a bit
of luck it seemed we could see all the animals we wanted. In the
meantime we asked us how it would continue, and if it could get any
better? Today we know, yes it can. The next evening, on our shortcut
towards north, it seemed we slept close to the dining room of two ant
eaters. And a bit further on, the following night, it was the one of
yellow chested araras. And in case it was a day that we have not seen so
many animals yet, Sonja complained: “long time since we’ve seen a
toucan!” And within minutes one few along. It was almost a bit scary.
Before we turned into the Transpantaneira in the north of the Pantanal,
we visited the oldest high plain of the world. But unfortunately also
here was the rule no visit without guide, because all the attractions
are private properties. Nevertheless we found our way to an amazing spot
at the Lago Manso and spent two days right on its shore to digest the
past eventful days.
The point came as it pulled us into paradise again. And it continued as
we left it. Here in the north we even recognized more nests with
juveniles, it was fun to watch the youngsters trying their wings to
prepare for their first flight. We also got to see a couple of the rare
Hyacinth-Araras. Not far from our wild campground we could not overhear
their conversation so we crossed the fence into the facenda and could
spend about 20 minutes with them, and since they are not only true to
their partner but also to the area we could enjoy them several times.
We’ve mentioned a wild campground; we were not the only long time
travelers in the area. Next to the Troopy-Team Ursula and Adriano that
we already met for the fourth time, we also got to know Alexandra and
Steffen a German couple, a Swiss / Columbian couple Armin and Marisol
and an Austrian couple Christel and Ernst. Together we spent several
great but also cold evenings. Because the thing that the travel guide
‘warned’ from happened. A cold front from Patagonia reached Brazil and
from one day to the other the temperature dropped about 20°C and did not
reach 15°C at daytime anymore. While it was quite refreshing in the
beginning it was not just us who longed for the warmer temperatures
quite soon after. And since all animals hid for warmth where they could,
tourist found a new attraction; wildcampers also know as long time
travelers. One morning it was only us who already prepared breakfast,
the others were still sleeping, two Brazilian cars turned into ‘our’
campground. Quietly the families at least ten people sneaked around.
After they asked us by hand signs if it was Ok to take pictures, the
posing with wife and kids in front of the different vehicles started.
Often we got photographed on our journey but that was the top of it all.
After we resisted the cold for three days, as a compensation we got to
see two giant horned owls and a two meter long giant otter, we turned
our back to this paradise. We were fortunate to spend an amazing and
exiting time between all the animals in their natural habitat. Never
would we have dreamed of that we could experience all that on our own.
Nevertheless the question sneaked in the back of our head; Even if cow
and caiman life together since ages now, how much linger will it work?
Because most of the, for us accessible, land is pastureland on which
thousands of cattle graze. And only the last few kilometers are still
‘real’ swamp like one would imagine being all over the place. We hope
that this heart land of the Pantanal gets spared from the fazendas. That
also for the time to come the last animals of their kind may find a
refuge here.
Até breve!
Sonja and Markus
Here it goes to the pictures…
Here in goes to the underwater pictures… |
