Magellanes: 29.03. – 09.04.2010

In the meantime we got used to granite rocks seemingly growing out of nowhere up to 3’000 Meters (10’000 feet) above Ssa level. But it is always breathtaking to drive from a prairie towards such a mountain range. This time they were the peaks from the Parque National Torres del Paine, which drew our attention. And already the approach seemed to show how varied this piece of earth is.

Since a few weeks we tried to see every great sunrise, that is why it was clear we also wanted to see the famous Torres del Paine in its red glow. So we wanted to camp at its base and manage the last bit in the early morning, that at least was the plan, but the weather god crossed them. According to the forecast the day after our arrival was supposed to be the last suitable for a while and in was too late to manage the trip before dark to set up camp. Hmm, and now? But we could start in the morning at three. Said and done, the alarm set to 2:30 am and just a bit after 3 there were two flashlights on its way.

After 4 hours we reached the Mirrador (view point), searched for a nice spot on the rocks to enjoy the show. In the meantime we were joined by a few other crazy fools, though most of them seemed to have slept at one of the campgrounds along the way. What we have seen was great, but nothing compared to other sunrises, since there were a few clouds in the way. Nevertheless we enjoyed the colorful granite needles, had our breakfast and a decent rest before we headed down again.

That was not supposed to be the highlight of the day. We had a hard time to keep our eyes open not to stumble down the mountain, how far to go were the main thoughts going thru our mind. Until Markus realized a bunch of hikers on the trail, taking pictures of something. At the time Sonja realized what happened, Markus has already taken the camera from her and started taking pictures. “There a couple of Woodpeckers!” “ Where? “  „There! “ Quickly she rubbed her eyes again and then also she saw them. With a board smile on her face all tiredness has all of a sudden vanished. Finally we have seen them as well.  For a little eternity we watched them flying from tree to tree and hammering at them. Hopefully they don’t get a concussion of the brain.

Ten hours after we left, we arrived with aching knees at Nisto. Where it only meant to get out of the shoes and find a sleeping place. Indeed it seemed to be our lucky day. At the side of the road they were barely visible, some old tracks leading behind a hill. Look left, look right, and the Nisto Team was not seen on the road anymore. We followed the tracks downhill right to a quiet bay with great views of the mountains. Ten minutes later Nisto was parked, sleeping room was set up and from the crew could only some regular breathing recognizable. Only for Dinner we got up again

Three nights we spent in our wonderful bay. While on the first day we made some excursions with some walks to viewpoints, we enjoyed the second just in our bay catching up on homework and relaxing.

The last morning showed us what the park is also famous for. Wind was shaking our tent to the worst. We took it as a sign to pack up and leave for the western parts of the park. Or a bit more accurate Lago Grey at the bottom of the Glacier with the same name. We didn’t really know what to expect, so our surprise was even bigger as we’ve seen the huge turquoise ice cubes floating in the lake.

We also wanted to decide if we should go on to a multi day hike, or if we should leave the park. The weather report had the last word and it said to be good for the next three days, which made all our excuses a farce. So we packed up our back bags and walked on into great weather. The way and the view were marvelous, but we also felt that we are not used to such ‘heavy’ loads fortunately though our knees have not been complaining.

As we reached our destination we have been astonished, not by the camp ground and that we have been all by ourselves, but by the Mosquitoes that greeted us a bit too eager. Hallo, no one has ever said anything about them! Well it seems that having not the common Patagonian wind does not only have advantages.

While building up our tent with the right hand, we had to fight the blood sucking beasts with the left. Fortunately we have been packed up quite well so it was mainly face and hands. After Spaghetti Mediterranean we made it ourselves comfortable on a tree trunk to watch the sunset and as the last colorful spot disappeared we tugged us into our sleeping bags, it was getting colder.

Already at night Sonja figured, while following nature’s calls, that the ground was frozen. As we woke up in the morning it was clear; nope, we stay here for another while till the sun shines on our tent no matter what sunrise is doing outside.

At 10am it was about time and after a standing breakfast, ground was still frozen, we went to explore our surroundings. Not just the temperatures have arrived in autumn it was wonderful walking around in the colorful nature in the middle of nowhere. After Spaghetti Arabiata and another sunset our sleeping bags had us again.

This time at least Sonja wanted to see sunrise and forced herself out of the cozy warm bed, her efforts got rewarded and a whole bouquet of colors was showing in the sky. After we also managed the second night we headed back for our Nisto. For the last night in the Parque National Torres del Paine we allowed ourselves a campground with steaming hot showers, a treat after over a week of glacier water washing.

The next report will be from Argentina again.

Cold regards from the south.

Sonja and Markus

Here it goes to the Pictures...