Aysen, Los Lagos: 21. – 30.04.2010

In the mean time we were used to the border crossings to Chile and the reminding words of the travel guide book, that the Chileans take it soo serious about the import of prohibited foods, but we haven’t gotten any of that till April 21st. Our fridge was never opened and we even heard from other travelers that they could keep milk and cheese. So what was the whole effort for.

With a bulging fridge, except fresh meat, fruit and vegetables, we headed for the border. While we checked everything with no on the declaration form, we got our passports stamped. Back outside at Nisto the inspector came out running with rubber gloves on, he got right into Nisto and finally we could witness a thorough check. He headed right away for the fridge, how did he realize it that quick? Markus could distract him from it with our boxes full of dry food (which is allowed) but as he was through them he wanted to see what is inside that cold treasure box. What would he say to the milk, the yogurts, the cheese, the salami? And would he even find the hidden single tomato and half the onion? No he didn’t find them and we could keep everything else. What he took from us was some dried pepperoni from a ready meal that we bought over a year ago in the United States; it most likely wasn’t eatable anymore anyway.

Now the search started for the Chilean Cueva de los Manos. Those are human hand imprints that are supposed to a few thousand years old. Even today nobody knows what they stand for. Since the way to the cave isn’t marked it is recommended to take a guide. But instead to be sent from door to door because the season is over we thought we take the chance and try to find it ourselves. Soon we found the starting point 25km off Chile Chico on a gravel road and a trail that was leading up into the mountains. Well, cannot be that difficult. But that is what it got, according to the red color of the rocks, one could imagine where it might go to, but there were still many trails splitting off that we had to decide on. There was also a significant gain in altitude that we underestimated; otherwise we would not have left, since it was already early afternoon. After about an hour we reached the first point that was mentioned on the board in the valley; an about 25–30m tall rock standing upright in the middle of a green meadow. In further two kilometers we should be there. We continued for some three and a half kilometers but from the cave was no sign. Finally we reached a hill where we enjoyed great views. But with a heavy heart we had to turn around, in one and a half hours it would get dark. Even if we have not found the Cueva de los Manos, it was a great hike with an amazing landscape.

The gravel road that we came on led to the Parque National Lago Jeinimeni. And since we had no other plans we followed it without really knowing what to expect. We headed towards a mountain range where it must have been snowing a few days ago; it was all covered with light powder. The road was just after our taste, but we got an impression that where it leads it must be cold, all potholes where covered with ice. Markus had to stop every few meters, because Sonja wanted to take pictures from seemingly every colorful tree in front of a snow caped mountain. That went until we stood in front of a small creek on whose other side the entrance to the park was. Without closer inspection of the flowing liquid, other cars have passed here as well, we literally dove into the flood. With waves almost to the hood and a passenger seat screaming lightly, the call was just don’t stop and get out of here. But it was not supposed to be the only wash. A few kilometers further we stood in front of a not so convincing looking bridge with a chain across, should that be it? Well not with us. Walking down the river we found a ford of about 10m width, but this time we didn’t just take the chance, and Markus walked the ice cold river first and found it suitable. A few minutes later Nisto was on the other side and we followed the track along the lake and found a heaven like spot. We spent sunny days just reading and clear minus temperature nights (we were on 850 meters) all by ourselves, even if the snow was not enough to build a snowman, but put off is not canceled. It was a dream and if we would not have run out of bread we most likely would still be there.

We continued around Lago General Carrera with amazing views all around it. In the little town of Puerto Rio Tranquilo we wanted to take an excursion the the Capilla de Marmol. A part of the coast is of limestone that gets washed out since millenniums and looks like marble. We suspected to head into closed doors again but this time it was different, and after a bit of bargaining 20 minutes later we sat in the boat heading out. It is amazing how nature creates such formations.

In the meantime we were on the Carretera Austral, also know to be the ultimate road trip similar to the Ruta 40 in Argentina. But Landscape wise the two could not be much different. At least the parts that we have seen where covered in dense forests, tall mountains and glaciers. Unfortunately the weather didn’t play along. In the Parque National Queulat we were lucky but the rest of the time we had continuous rain and we just wanted to get out of here to finally get dry.

Our hope was Chaiten. A little town right at the ocean, which got ‘burried’ by ash at the breakout of the Volcano Chaiten in May 2008. Even today it looks like a ghost town and people are calling for light and water, but since the threat of the volcano is not over government is reluctant with support for the officially still abandoned town. From here we also wanted to take the ferry to Island Chiloe. But as we heard prices, schedule and weather forecast we’ve thrown these plans aboard and decided for the detour via Argentina, there also was supposed to be the long longed sunshine. Said and done.

Our so far last night in Chile, we spent underneath a bridge, so we had at least a chance to stay dry. Before we were hiding in Nisto we had a little chat with some Argentineans that drove for two day across continent (800km) to fish here for salmon, and since they were lucky we got fresh grilled salmon for dinner, a treat.

If we were lucky with the weather on the other side of the Andes you can read in the next report.

Till soon.

Sonja and Markus