Honduras: 26. – 27.12.2009

After Guatemala and El Salvador, where we only had good experiences with the police, we didn’t expect it to be any different in Honduras. But, first it comes different, and second than one thinks.

We haven’t off the border area where we got waved over by the first police officer. We showed him the receipt of the import tax for Nisto, but he didn’t want to see that at all. To our question what the problem was apparently he couldn’t think of anything clever, so a friend came to help him: We were driving too far, we were supposed to stop at the first red cone. Hmm, interesting since the first policemen waved us to stop just at the second one. A confusing back and forth began, where we didn’t understand them, and they didn’t understand our mix of German, English, Spanish and as decoration a bit of French, we gave our best to confuse the men in uniform as good as we could. Then one thought of asking for the driving license. But since Mexico we do not hand out originals anymore, because if they have that in their hand they will find what ever and you’ll have to pay a bribe just to get your papers back. That’s why he just got a copy. With an angry stare he insisted on the original. But Markus just shaked his head from left to right and asked again what the actual problem is. That was too much for the ‘law’ enforcement officer and he opened up Markus door and ordered him to get out. On that Markus took a different turn and offered: “your police license against my driving license!” A big question mark of the cops face, but he “listened”. The door closed again. However Markus was just allowed to have a quick glimpse on it, we wanted to write down name and number. “Noooo!” “Well then you won’t see any originals from us!” Slowly one could see despair rise in the eyes of Mr. Police, he thought for a while and then asked again “Where are you going to?” “Panama … Can we go now?” “Well, get out of here!” Sure, why not right away like that.

With a board smile and proud, not with us dude, we continued along the road. Just to be stopped by the one who wanted to see the receipt of the import tax and he wanted a copy of it as well. Basically no problem, but the copy shops where all right at the border on the other side of the ‘friendly’ police we just passed. There was no choice we had to return, but to avoid further complication Markus walked the last bit to the copy shop.

The journey could continue. But just a few kilometers further we again got stopped at a police checkpoint. And the same game started all over again. Also here they wanted the driving license. This time it was about emergency triangles and reflectors. What do you need our papers for that? Since Nisto wasn’t even checked at all. Well, he got the copies, but also here he wanted the originals. “Of course if we can see you Picture ID.” “Ah, Photo?” and the young police officer who identified himself as Ronny was searching of a photo of his. “No, your police ID.” After some further search through all his pockets and wallets he found something that looked like it and showed it quickly to Markus who could only get a quick glimpse of the Name (Fernando Alvarez, or something), before it got packed away again. “But I thought your name is Ronny?” “Can I get you driving license now?” But Markus just said “Show me again I need to write your details down.” “No, that was not the deal.” So Markus, learning from before, locked the door and started winding the window up “Well, if you won’t show us, we are leaving now.” The young police men hung with open mouth and a stunned look at our window and didn’t know what is happening. So Markus picked the copy of the driving license out of his hands and said again “So we are driving now! Adios.” And so we left another confused Police men who looked after us lifting his shoulders and shaking his head.

Slowly we started to like this game. And indeed we didn’t have to drive far for the next checkpoint. But before the Police could say something, Markus left his anger about the 3rd checkpoint in the first 50km out. And it seemed that had its effect as well since he accepted the copy and let us go with a handshake, normally with a handshake they expect some money, but of course there was none.

Altogether we had within a distance of 89 km (55 mi) 5 checkpoints, where we got waved through on the last two. Maybe it was because we stopped at the right red cone (10m in front of the police men), and waited there till we blocked traffic.

Since we didn’t know of a suitable campground and after those lovely experiences with the police, we decided to take a Hostel Room for the night, before we could confront the police again the next morning.

Indeed we didn’t have to drive far for the first checkpoint. Again the copy and on the question for the Police license against the original one could hear three policemen debate in front of our window. On the question do you speak Spanish, one could hear a furious Sonja in her best French: “5 checkpoints the copy was no problem, why is it problem here?” We could witness some further debating, “What does she say?” “I don’t know.” “What are we doing now?” Well … I guess it will be all right.” Then towards us “Ok, have a safe journey!” And so we continued for the last two checkpoints, with the last one even giving a helpful hint considering the border.

After 137 km (85 mi) in Honduras and 8 police checkpoints we drove at lunchtime towards the border of Nicaragua. Where we like always lately got greeted by about 20 transmitters or money changers running towards Nisto and of course they only wanted to “help”. How we managed to politely get rid of them you can read in the Nicaragua Report.

With lots of love from the adrenalin-rush-troubled

Sonja and Markus

Here it goes to the pictures…