Puno, Arequipa: 11. – 25.09.2010

In the meantime it is over a year ago since we walked down the Grand Canyon and up in a day, carried our dive gear inclusive weights 200 meters down to Crater Lake and paddled against 25 knots of wind in the Johnson Straight. Long time no crazy stuff anymore, for Sonja definitely too long, so it was brewing in her little head; If we already are in this altitude all the time, why not climb a bit higher, maybe a 6’000 meter peak?!?

Long we didn’t have to look for a suitable victim. The Nevada Chachani with 6’075 meters above sea level in the south of Peru should be it. Before that we still had a date with Marion und Mario in Puno, at the Lake Titicaca. They did exactly like us start their journey last year in North America and are now traveling South America as well. Nisto however had to go and see a doctor before he was ready for Trudy, one of his leaf springs let go on the way to Puno (now we also know where that loud ‘plong’ came from and that it wasn’t a stone that hit chassis). But as we got to know South Americans, that would not be a big deal, somehow that can be fixed. And indeed an hour later the best leaf spring welder in town fixed the sore part, and Nisto got sent into the big wide world again, saying it would last like a normal spring would.
The next day we spent with Marion, Mario and Trudy on the Peninsula Capachica far off of all tourists. Our track got followed by many big as well as small pairs of eyes and quite a few also friendly waived after us. Also because of that we have not been alone at our wild Camp with great views onto the Lake Titicaca, the on 3’810 meter highest navigable lake on earth, for long. In regular intervals we got visits from the locals. The mayor and his deputy even came by. However he was more concerned that we would be a commercial tourist group, because they do not like that and they would not want to end up like the locals on the touristy island just off shore. Who have to play attraction for the tourists. We convinced him that we prefer to see the landscape then knitting men. And that is how he, due to his position, granted us permission to camp for the night.
The next morning we had to realize that the inhabitants of the peninsula are early birds. Because already at 6.30 somebody knocked at our door and a loud; ‘Buenos Dias’ penetrated our roof tent. After that early chat thru the tent there were no more thought of sleeping and after a thorough breakfast we headed off, Marion and Mario southward and for us it goes north. Maybe our path will cross again somewhere on this world.
Now we headed for our first 6’000 meter peak. The plan was ready, first we wanted to check out the base camp to see if there is an explanation of the track or such, and then we wanted to hike in the Colca Canyon for a bit more training, since we have not been all too busy lately, before we would return for the big event.
But as we know quite well by now, first it comes different and second then you think. The drive up to the base camp on 5’080 Meter took everything of Nisto. We literally jumped from rock to rock and for the first time the needle for the cooling water started rising towards the red area. The question rose quickly; do we want to stress Nisto with this road for a second time?!? As we arrived we just met a mountaineering guide with an Austrian couple who just returned. Of course we bombarded them with questions and after the talk it was clear, we would be starting right the next morning.
Even before the sun has risen at first daylight, one could see us slowly crawl up the first hill. Most likely an ant would have been faster than us, but in the calmness lays the strength. Continuously one step after another and the first 500 altimeters went actually quite well. The track was easy to recognize and the views where stunning, if it would not have been for the thin air. The heart beat was so clearly hearable it the ears, we were afraid it wanted to jump out and question us on what we are doing! The higher we got, the tougher it was.
As we stud at the bottom of the last 100 Meter climb and looked up it got really hard to motivate one another. But it was clear here so short before the peak we could not give up. So it was each for itself, which meant about fife meter walking, stand still to yaps for air, then a bit later some other fife meters walking just to sink on the trail to relax a few minutes to catch some breath, just to begin this game from front… like that until we reached after 6 hours and 40 minutes the top. To describe the feeling as we made it is almost impossible. And right next to the cross on top we sank down and looked down on the earth and the mountains below us.
We spent another night at the basecamp before we headed to the 2’727 meter lower city of Arequipa to finally relax form our strain. We had no idea what we would meet so we were very positive surprised as we’ve seen the cosy old town with all its colonial churches and buildings. Its second name ‘white town’ does not mean the mainly white tuff stone the city is built from, it comes from colonial times as only white folk lived there. Fortunately that has changed since then.
After two days of sleeping in, big town rumble, Pisco Soure, Quinoa Soup and Alpaka Steak, our way led us fresh and cheerful to the Canon de Colca, one of the deepest Canyons of our planet. Even without sore muscles, we might have been just too slow for it, we did not attempt to hike down the canyon anymore. But we didn’t want to miss the Condors. So we waited with hundreds of other tourists till these giant started to fly, just amazing how they soar, seemingly weightless, thru the air and play effortless with the winds.
Because for our next target Cusco there was only rain in the forecast till the next weekend we took our time and a little detour past the most extensive Petro glyph field in Peru at Torre Muerto and thru the beautiful Valle de los Volcanoes. Not always we have been sure if we were on the right road, but by now we were used to that and we finally reached the department border to Cusco. What we experienced at the navel of the world you can read in the next report.
Hasta pronto
Sonja and Markus

Here it goes to the pictures...