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Cusco: 26.09. – 07.10.2010 We got to know the Peruvians as open minded and curious folk and even got attached to them. That was until one of those youngsters crossed our path. In Central America we kind of got used to children begging at the road side. But here in South America we have been quite surprised to see so many kids holding their hands open, with us of course for nothing (We want them to go to school and not go begging.) Even more surprised we have been as two stones just nearly missed Nistos window at the rear end.
… „Bürschchen komm doch mal her!“ … Of course he didn’t come, maybe it
was because he didn’t understand Markus, or maybe he had an idea that it
might be smarter to get lost. But they say you see each other always
twice in life. And see; the passage thru the next village we wanted to
go by was blocked due to a community meeting, the whole Plaza de Armas
full of people. So we had to turn around and go back the same way as we
came. It wasn’t just us who didn’t like that idea, the Kiddies eyes got
bigger and bigger, and themselves got smaller and smaller as they
recognized us. Once more Markus held up the finger threatening them. But
they seem to have understood, and since we are not as bad as we might
look, they got the flag from the ‘cornfield party’ that Nisto got
attached in the village. With sparkling eyes and a ‘Muchas Gracias
Señor’ they happily took it.
As we, just before sunset and after a few detours, finally reached our
destination, one of the last Inca suspension bridge, we were lucky and
meet Justo, one of the thousand constructors, who every year in June
rebuild it within just four days. We got a personal tour and bombarded
him with questions. The bridge consists only of natural materials. Six
ropes of adean grass, each containing 80 fibers, stretch across the
gorge, which are anchored in stony bridge heads. On the four lower
ropes, tightened with natural fiber cords, branches and twigs are laid
out. With the upper two ropes as handrails the bridge is ready to pass.
However he also mentioned that the is only maintained because of the
tourists, for themselves it has no use no more, since a steel bridge is
just next to it. At the moment there is also a Hotel being built close
by. Apparently they only see the positive influence of tourism. How it
will look like in a few years? Who knows?
Justo invited us to spend the night at his farm, what we thankfully
accepted. So we got to know his family and could get a peek behind the
doors of one of the many clay adobe houses. The interior is much like
the outside; really sparse, even though they have electricity since only
four years. We couldn’t imagine to life like this. Even Nisto is pure
luxury if you don’t look at the size.
After a week of pure nature all off the tourist routes, the next morning
we took track back to civilization, or a bit more accurate the heart of
the former Inca imperia; Cusco. GPS chased us all over the fascinating
town; a few times it happened that we drove thru narrow alleys that
suddenly ended in stairs. Then it meant turning in a thousand tries. And
if we wanted to relax seemingly sure to be on the right way; all of a
sudden there was a road full of Taxis heading towards us. Reason: the
road turns without any mark or sign into a one-way. Who the he.. thinks
of something like that!?!
However sometime we managed to find our home for the next few days,
those we spent with relaxing, lazing around, strolling thru the alleys
of Cusco as well as visiting Inca museums and ruins close by. Till it
meant: Machu Picchu, the most famous of the lost Inca Cities, is
calling. Also we belonged to the, in the meantime quite a few, who are
asking themselves to actually go there. Prices for train and entrance
are skyrocketing. And every one has to go by the little village of Aguas
Calientes that can only be reached by train or by foot. Since the cost
for the train are about two thirds and our curiosity was just too big we
decided to go but by the back entrance. To reach Aguas Calientes we
took a 130 Kilometer detour with partly quite rough road along beautiful
scenery over a 4000 meter pass and down into the jungle past Santa
Teresa to Hydroelectrica. There a little Family who also takes care of
equipment from the power plant watched over Nisto, so we could walk the
remaining 12 Kilometers along the rails.
The next day we stormed with other 1328 Tourists (we specifically asked
in the evening) the ruins. Of course we belonged to the first ones,
because in the early morning, as fog clouds wander thru the site, it is
supposed to be the most mystic atmosphere. And it was. Astonished by the
view over the site we remained two full hours at the viewpoint. On one
of the many terraces we sat down and let the ruins do the rest. Very
little is really known about this place. Fact is the Spanish
conquistadores never found it and so it got forgotten. However not with
the indigenous population, the site was still inhabited till the 17th
century and its terraces were still in use till its ‘rediscovery’ in
1911.
With the fog and the sun that slowly made its way thru the clouds, the
atmosphere changed by the minute. However as the tourists stormed the
place, we left our gazing point and toured thru the ruin town ourselves.
Amazing how the huge stones are joint less matched and because of the
perfect condition they are in, one only needs to imagine the thatched
roofs and life could flourish once more. After nine hours of inspecting
every last corner we started our way back to Nisto on the same evening,
where we sank exhausted and full of impressions to bed. One question
remains though; which Peruvian or Inca Descendant can afford a visit of
this holy site of their ancestors? A Peruvian worker would have to pay a
month salary! Discounts are rare, even for locals.
After this amazing excursion we visited an agricultural center of the
Incas, at least that is what most of the scientists think, it could be a
religious or cultural thing as well? What they do know is what the salt
terraces of Pichingoto where for, because they are still in use today.
Before we left for the coast and the lowlands once more we managed to
stop in Chinchero with its beautiful clay church from the 16th century
(also built on Inca Ruins) and its colorful market.
How we managed to survive the drive to the coast in between all the suicidal bus drivers, you can read in the next report.
Till soon, take care.
Sonja and Markus
Here it goes to the pictures… |
