Alaska: 15. – 29.07.2009

Oh, how did we look forward to this place on earth; the animals, the glaciers, the mountains. But for us, Alaska went down the river and if not so it went up in flames. But it has started so good.

We crossed the border in the middle of nowhere on the Top of the World Highway with a great blue sky. In Tok we went straight to the Visitor Center to get information about the Denali National Park, with the highest mountain in North America, the Mount McKinley, which was supposed to be our next target. But we were told to first visit the south, since there are about 60 wildfires around Denali. So we went to the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park were 9 of the 16 highest peaks in North America are. Unfortunately or maybe fortunately depends on where you look from there are only two “short” roads that go into Americas largest National Park. But we’ve, had even with going south first, quite some smoke, nevertheless we could see some snowy with glacier covered mountains.

We tied on our hiking boots and went on a in the beginning quite adventurous trail, were we could have used a machete to get through the bush and not having to crawl on all four, though later on the trail lost most of its attractivety.

Further we went via the Richardson Highway to Valdez, finally on the ocean again. Also on this tour we were mostly followed by the smoke that covered up the mountains. We kept our heads up, because along the coast it sure does not burn. No but it rains. The Worthington Glacier along the roadside we could enjoy with sun, but as we arrived in the picture some advertised Valdez there was little to see of its beauty with the low hanging clouds, that were threatening to pour down any minute. A little drawn back we started to plan the next few days. From Christina we got a hot tip to do an Ice Kayak Tour. And about an hour later we were signed up for the next day. That should have been a relaxing day but the weather forecast predicted worse.

We were almost on time at 8am at the store of the organizer and tried on raingear, life wests,  rubber boots and spray skirts, before we got explained what we got to do if the Kayak gets tipped by an Orca and we manage not to get eaten. About an hour and a half later we sat in the speed boat on the way to the Columbia Glacier. Unfortunately we haven’t seen Orcas but the Icebergs with all their forms and the different shades o blue is definitely a different experience, it definitely is something to paddle along them. It has been a chilly day but we have been lucky with the rain, so all in all we had a great day. On the way back we even got rewarded with seeing a sea otter.

In that night the rain finally started and it wasn’t going to get any better soon, which was the same for our next step, Seward. So we moved slowly via Kennicott, where we got some more smoke, via the Glenn Highway and the Hatcher Pass towards Anchorage. Strange enough we didn’t get much rain, should the forecast have been wrong? On the way we met Peter, Petra with Alessandra (we met them before in Florida) and they told us about constant rain down south. Up to the point where even the Tour boats wouldn’t go out to the glaciers anymore. Now we could only hope.

In Anchorage we placed our Nisto just next to old friends, Ruth and Walter, that way an agreement from our last meeting could come true. The two of them offered the roast pork from their oven while Sonja made her famous glazed carrots. Oh it was a fiest we won’t forget that soon. The next evening Margrit and Walter, we got to know them in Dawson City were also in Anchorage. And our official meeting with Christina (our bridesmaid) took place. The Campground cannot be recommended at all, except if you have forgotten your alarm clock. Every day at 8am there was a train just about 5 meters from us with a loud Tututuuuuuuts. But we had a great time in Anchorage.

Finally the day of the decision came, were should we go next. The weather forecast for the next days was just rain both the south and the Denali Park, what to do? In the end we decided with a heavy heart against the south.

So we drove via the Denali Highway towards east and enjoyed some great days without rain and have been Camping on some wonderful untouched places with only the sounds of the northern nature. In the evening we went to bed next to Beavers and Goose using the last light. In the morning we got woken by a Moose feeding in the lake. Besides all that we were also proven right not to go via Fairbanks since in that area, quite a few wildfires were still burning.

In the mean time we passed the Canadian border and the thermometer shows 30°C again. We haven’t yet given up the hope to still see whales and glaciers. Sonja has found something that could compensate us in full. Now you have to cross fingers. We will Report.

Adios

Sonja and Markus

Here it goes to the Pictures…